Monday, July 30, 2012

Fertilizing your Trees Fertilize your trees the second season after transplanting. It is best to have them “deep root” fed by a professional. If you choose to feed the trees yourself, a good general purpose fertilizer is 10-6-4. Sprinkle the fertilizer on the ground around the plant. Water it in slowly. Suggestion: Keep turf grasses away from the rootball. A good way to do this is to keep the area around the tree mulched so that no grass can grow. Turf grasses absorb a great deal of nutrients from the ground and will important nutrients from your trees - these nutrients are extremely important for a newly planted tree to grow well. Keeping this mulched area around your tree will also help you avoid bark damage done by lawn mowers and other garden machinery. A tree that is properly cared for is a happy and healthy tree. Show it a little love and it will provide you with beauty, shade, and habitat for birds and other wildlife! If you have any questions or would like our assistance, please give us a ring or contact us.

Hot Dry Weather - Water your newly planted/transplanted trees!

All plants need water to live. Generally, newly transplanted stock needs even more water. In heavy soils, water new trees thoroughly once a week. In light or highly porous soils, water more often. Use judgment regarding watering. If conditions are hot, dry, or windy, the trees will transpire much more, and will need more water. If there is substantial rainfall and/or the weather is cool, watering should be reduced accordingly until conditions are dryer. Caution: One of the most common causes of plant death is over-watering. You can literally “kill ’em with kindness.” So, be sensitive to weather conditions and water accordingly. Please call us if you are unsure 215-766-8733. Watering Guidelines for newly planted trees & Method of Watering • Lay the hose at the base of the trunk and trickle water on the plant. We suggest the following system: Adjust hose volume so that it fills an 8-ounce glass every minute. Put hose at base of tree for 24 hours. If water runs off away from the root ball, reduce the flow. (A general rule of thum is 3.75 gal. per hour, or 90 gals. Per 24-hour period. As a guideline, in hot, dry weather you want to water twice a week at this rate… in wet, cool weather, less to none.) • If leaves droop or appear to be drying, water the leaves with a fine spray. Never spray the leaves during the middle of the day when the sun is the strongest. Only water the leaves in the early morning, late afternoon, and evening. Leaf spraying should be done especially if it is hot, dry, or windy. This process will reduce transpiration of moisture and will help your new trees significantly. Duration of Watering • Continue to water flowering shrubs and shade trees until they are bare in the fall. • Continue to water evergreens even more, right up to Christmas or until the ground is solidly frozen Note: You need to water for a minimum period of 2 years, longer than 2 years is even better. Infrequent deep watering is better than frequent shallow watering.

Friday, August 19, 2011

Fertilizing your trees

Fertilizing

Fertilize the second season after transplanting. It is best to have them “deep root” fed by a professional. If you choose to do it yourself, a good general purpose fertilizer is 10-6-4. Sprinkle the fertilizer on the ground around the plant. Water it in slowly.

Suggestion:

Keep turf grasses away from the rootball. A good way to do this is to keep the area around the tree mulched so no grass can grow. Turf grasses absorb a great deal of nutrients from the ground. These nutrients are extremely important for a newly planted tree to grow well. You will also avoid bark damage done by lawn mowers.

A tree that is properly cared for is a happy and healthy tree. Care for yours and enjoy it!

Monday, August 15, 2011

Watering Guidelines for newly planted trees

Method of Watering

Note: You need to water for a minimum period of 2 years, longer than 2 years is even better. Infrequent deep watering is better than frequent shallow watering.

• Lay the hose at the base of the trunk and trickle water on the plant. We suggest the following system: Adjust hose volume so that it fills an 8-ounce glass every minute. Put hose at base of tree for 24 hours. If water runs off away from the root ball, reduce the flow. (A general rule of thum is 3.75 gal. per hour, or 90 gals. Per 24-hour period. As a guideline, in hot, dry weather you want to water twice a week at this rate… in wet, cool weather, less to none.)

• If leaves droop or appear to be drying, water the leaves with a fine spray. Never spray the leaves during the middle of the day when the sun is the strongest. Only water the leaves in the early morning, late afternoon, and evening. Leaf spraying should be done especially if it is hot, dry, or windy. This process will reduce transpiration of moisture and will help your new trees significantly.

Duration of Watering

• Continue to water flowering shrubs and shade trees until they are bare in the fall.

• Continue to water evergreens even more, right up to Christmas or until the ground is solidly frozen

Friday, August 12, 2011

Reminder - Water your newly planted/transplanted trees!

All plants need water to live. Generally, newly transplanted stock needs even more water. In heavy soils, water new trees thoroughly once a week. In light or highly porous soils, water more often.

Use judgment regarding watering. If conditions are hot, dry, or windy, the trees will transpire much more, and will need more water. If there is substantial rainfall and/or the weather is cool, watering should be reduced accordingly until conditions are dryer.

Caution: One of the most common causes of plant death is over-watering. You can literally “kill ’em with kindness.” So, be sensitive to weather conditions and water accordingly. Please call us if you are unsure.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Moving Trees. Changing Landscapes.

American Treescapes is an owner-operated company specializing in large tree installation, relocation and sales. American Treescapes serves Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Delaware and Maryland.

Homeowners:
Want Privacy?
We'll use the right trees to create a natural buffer and screen that will turn your home into a real sancturary.

Looking for key landscape pieces?
We carefully install everything from the common shade tree to unusual, exotic specimens.
 
Ready for a new look?
Sometimes trees and shrubs can grow too big for their locations. Instead of removing them you might consider transplanting them to a more suitable location.
 
Adding a new room or garage?
And there's a beautiful tree in the way...no need to cut it down! First, let's plan to transplant it elsewhere on your property to create shade, a privacy barrier, or a key piece of the landscape.

Developers:
Use existing trees to create a buffer.
Don’t clear the lot without considering transplanting the viable trees first.
 
Transplanting the "on-site" trees is becoming very popular with local governments and townships.
Trees now have a higher value than they used to and by saving them from destruction you may add value your project by saving trees and preserving the equity of the property.
 
Add value to your new commercial and residential developments.
We add privacy to your property by intalling tree buffers. Are neighboring properties not as attractive? Shield them from view with strategically planted trees. 

The Equipment & Expertise to Do It Right!
Let our experienced staff serve you with our growing fleet of trucks and state-of-the-art transplanting equipment. We can carefully and safely transplant trees up to 14" in diameter. We can work closely with your landscape designer or architect to design a landscape that adds value to your lifestyle and property.